Sunday, June 3, 2012

Villa Borghese-It’s like Central Park with Museums!


My expectations of the Villa Borghese were very little. I had never even heard of it before this trip began. I knew only that it was both a park and a museum of art. Fortunately, any expectations I had were met and exceeded.
In the 17th century, the Borghese family was rising to power when Camilo Borghese was chosen as the pope. He went by Pope Paul V and ended up providing many high ranking positions to his family. One such family member was his nephew, Scipione Borghese. Scipione was actually adopted by Pope Paul V and given the position of cardinal-nephew which meant he was the Pope’s secretary and had a lot of influence on the Vatican.
It was Scipione who built the Villa Borghese for a few reasons including prestige as a new wealthy family, to house diplomatic functions, and to house his art collection. He had at one point in the Villa over 1700 paintings. But, it was his legal immunity as the cardinal-nephew that allowed him to acquire it. He had no problem stealing or blackmailing in order to get the art pieces he wanted. Scipione did have good taste however, as he discovered an artist named Bernini.
Gianlorenzo Bernini was a sculptor who employed a baroque style. This meant he sculpted figures in motion and tried to find the energy of the beings and bring it to life. I think he did an unbelievable job. The Bernini sculptures we saw at the Villa Borghese were remarkable. The depth of emotion and passion was so evident. Two sculptures really stood out to me.
The first is of Apollo and Daphne. This sculpture tells the story of Apollo struck by Cupid’s arrow of love chasing the beautiful Daphne who does not wish for Apollo’s love. She pleads to her father Peneus, the river god, to change her form. Bernini captures the two in the moment of Apollo reaching Daphne and Daphne turning into a tree. Looking at the sculpture you can see them running, and the emotion on Daphne’s face is exquisite. Her fingers are turning to delicate leaves and her toes into roots. It is hard to believe that it was carved out of marble.
My second favorite is The Rape of Proserpine. Proserpine is being kidnapped by the ruler of the underworld Pluto (or Hades) and stolen away. I was truly amazed with this piece. Bernini was able to show her crying as a tear streaks down her cheek and the indentations of Pluto’s fingers in her skin as she struggles to get away from him.
Scipione Borghese can be attributed to ordering the beautiful sculptures, but Bernini gets all the credit. He made these when he was only 19-26 years old! He later suggested that they were some of his very best work.
The park surrounding the Galleria Borghese is actually the second largest park in Rome. It has 226 acres of gardens with statues and busts, fountains, and lakes. It even has two other museums. One of these museums houses Etruscan vases which we have seen early in our adventure through Roman history. It also has a zoo! It is one of the oldest in Europe and was founded in 1911.
So, while I really did not know what to expect going into the Villa Borghese I ended up astounded. To see the Bernini sculptures so lifelike and full of energy was simply marvelous. I would suggest that anyone who comes to Rome spend an afternoon at the Villa Borghese picnicking, viewing some amazing works of art, and seeing a few endangered animals too!

~Paige Pederson





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